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Enderle & Moll

Enderle & Moll, Münchweier, Baden, Germany.

Sven Enderle and Florian Moll work with very old vines. All work in the vineyard is done by hand and with a palpable sense of respect and awe for their vines. Their yields are low and vineyard work organic, moving toward biodynamic. Walking through the vineyard, it is easy to see where the Enderle & Moll plots begin and end, so clear is the vitality of their vines and soil.

Sven and Florian are hands-off in the cellar with no attempts at concentrating the must or making the wines dark and glossy. The dozen different parcels, mainly in Kirchhalden, are vinified separately, with one-third whole bunches. Grapes are crushed in an old wooden basket press and then go into secondhand Burgundian barrels, called pièces, such as from Domaine Dujac, for 12 months. Bottling, like everything else, is done by hand. There is no fining, no filtration, and no pumping. 

While the red wines have established the reputation of the estate, the white wines are getting better and better every year. 2013 marked a serious turning point. Arising from such unexpected grapes as Müller-Thurgau, Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder, the wines are textural and complicated, yet also elegant, and in perfect harmony.

There's a reason that Jancis Robinson called Enderle and Moll the new cult producers of Germany.